Smoked bacon lardons and egg yolks mixed with, not cream as in the classic recipe, but rather crème fraiche give this sauce a bit of tanginess to compliment the richness. The sliced chives provide a subtle flavor from the onion family.
For some reason, our inclination is to always pair white wine with pasta. The pasta itself—the actual flour, egg and water mixture—is what provides the “base” and as I learned when I made pasta in Italy, really good pasta should be the star and the sauce then compliments it. For this experiment, Aldo challenges me to taste the same red wine with four different pasta sauces—same noodles, different sauces. The result is surprising and compelling.